adminComment(0) - Free ebook download as PDF File .pdf), Text File .txt) or read curly girl. THE HANDBOOK EXPANDED SECOND EDITION. by Lorraine Massey. Editorial Reviews. From the Back Cover. Say no to shampoo, unplug the dryer, and find your inner curl. Celebrate the beauty of curls in a buoyant how-to. The Curly Girl Method was developed by Lorraine Massey. She shared it with the world in her book, Curly Girl: The Handbook. Curly hair, because of its construction, is drier and more prone to breakage/frizz than any other hair type.

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Get this from a library! Curly girl: the handbook. [Lorraine Massey; Michele Bender] -- Provides tips for curly hair, including shampooing, conditioners, drying, . Curly hair advocate Lorraine Massey is back with a new edition of her book, " Curly Girl: The Handbook". Considered the “Original Curly Girl,”. The Curly Girl Method, from Lorraine Massey's book “Curly Girl: The Handbook,” is a hair care method that trades in damaging habits (like.

Next, get rid of your old shampoo and begin your hunt for sulfate-free conditioners and styling gels. And finally, remember no amount of moisturizing can bring your dead ends back to life. Trim them off to really start fresh, and do it yourself to save money. This stimulates the hair follicles and strengthens the roots. It also lifts any sweat, oil, and dandruff that cling to your scalp, and allows you to wash them away more easily. Then rinse the conditioner out completely.

Depending on how dry your scalp gets, this can be done as seldom as once a week. Next, distribute the conditioner throughout the rest of your hair and untangle your hair slowly and gently using either your hands or a wide-tooth comb.

Start at the ends and work your way upward as you remove all the tangles. Once you finish, rinse out most of the conditioner with cool water, as this will seal the cuticle and reduce frizz. Massey recommends a side part to avoid that awkward triangle shape, but any that you prefer works perfectly fine. Those with curlier hair can apply products right away while the hair is still soaked. Wavy hair needs at least five minutes of drying time beforehand.

A leave-in conditioner is also recommended as a first step. Then gently rake it through using your fingers. Once all of your products are in, take the time to really shape your curls. You can do this either by scrunching them upwards in the palm of your hand or by twirling them individually around your finger. For those with more coily hair, a wash and go without styling or heat is suggested. This will not only ruin the curls, but will also cause frizz.

A good way to cut down on drying time is plopping: wrapping an old T-shirt or microfiber cloth around your head for 15 to 30 minutes. Use a little bit less each time you wash, and pair it with the conditioner to make the transition easier. Do your research and ask the right questions before deciding.

An experienced stylist will know that long, rounded layers are better for curly hair and that razor cuts can often lead to split ends. I was so humiliated by the result that I decided to wear a knit cap to school until my hair grew back. Dont even ask me what I went through in high school.

It was the late seventies, when everyone but me had straight Farrah Fawcett hair. I wonder if she had any idea how many curly girls suffered because of her hairstyle. Id wash my hair every night, blow-dry it straight, and pull it back in a ponytail. Then Id wake up at 6 A. The day of my senior prom, I was even more obsessed than usual with the weather report. We lived in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, where it is very humid, and the May mist is a nightmare.

I was wearing a to-die-for, off-the-shoulder gown, and I wanted my hair to be equally sleek. When I woke up that morning, the weather was hot and humid, and as the hours passed, the air remained laden with moisture. I gave up and let my hair do its thing. When I emerged from my bedroom, my mother looked stunned.

Your hair looks beautiful, she said. Thats how you should always wear it. I was horrified by my hair. When we arrived at the prom, I locked eyes across the ballroom with Mark, the boy Id had a crush on since fourth grade.

Like a scene from a movie, we walked toward each other, meeting halfway. You look so beautiful, he said. I cant believe what your hair looks like. We kissed passionately, right there in front of our dates. It was a magical moment. Then he threw up all over his shoes. He was totally wasted. But he loved my hair.

Today, I have two curly haired children and Im so happy to say that they love their hair my boys are pictured on page Their hair has never been tortured with a blow-dryer and Ive never used shampoo or a comb or brush.

In fact, since my husband is curly, too, we dont have a comb or brush in our entire house! The place most curly girls go wrong is in the cleansing and styling of their hair. Of course, all the information in this book is important for gorgeous, healthy hair, but if you read just one chapter intently, it should be this one. Thats because the most important part of loving and accepting your curls starts in the shower.

Adopting this regimen of daily hair care means youll have to unlearn a lot of assumptions you have about what constitutes good hair grooming, like using shampoo or the notion that you step in the shower and immediately start fussing with your locks.

But I guarantee this curly girl approach will change your life with your hair. The first unorthodox step is to throw out every bottle of shampoo in the bathroom and get rid of your blow-dryer unless you use it with a diffuser, which well talk about on page 55 , flat irons, brushes, and hot combs! Im going to show you how to keep your hair and scalp clean with sulfate-free cleansers or, if you cant find a sulfate-free cleanser, a botanical conditioner yes, you can cleanse with a conditioner.

Once you break your shampoo dependency, youll still be rinsing and cleaning your hair regularly, but in a way that will keep it hydrated and healthy. The harsh detergents found in most shampoos strip hair of its lubrication and cause the hairs cuticle to stand straight up like guards at the gate, so things like dirt and product buildup cant get out.

Curly hair is a dry, porous surface, so it holds onto the detergent-filled shampoo like a sponge, which is why its so hard to fully rinse it all out. This is a disaster for organic hair fiberespecially curly hair! Instead, sulfate-free cleansers and botanical conditioners soften and protect the hair. They keep the hairs cuticle closed during the cleansing process, which prevents tangling and matting, and allow whatever is in your hair to exit easily when rinsing.

Some curly girls may question whether they can truly clean their hair and scalp without sudsy shampoo. But I promise that the method I suggestfirmly massaging the entire surface of your scalp using circular motionswill get your scalp and hair clean. A lot of curly girls think that blow-drying and flat-ironing their hair straight once in a while is okay. But its not.

Straightening your curls occasionally is like smoking a cigarette every once in a whileyoud be surprised how much damage can be done from just that once! Over time and with good care, the memory of the curl locks in, the frizz disappears, and your curls elongate.

Youre on auto-curl pilot and you dont want to derail it! The friction of your fingertips combined with cleanser or conditioner will loosen and break up dirt and product buildup, leaving the scalp cleansed and deodorized and your curls undisturbed, but clean.

After all, friction is a time-tested method of cleaning think of a washing machine churning. The massaging motion also stimulates blood flow to the scalp, which brings nutrients to the hair follicles, helping hair to grow and stay healthy. In this chapter, youll find out the cleansing and styling routines for these types of curly hair corkscrew, botticelli, corkicelli, and cherub curls.

Since wavy and swavy curls and fractal and zigzag curls have some different steps, each has a separate chapter.

The Curly Girl Method: A How-To Guide

For wavy and swavy, see chapter 5, Catching a Wave, page For fractal and zigzag, see chapter 6, Multi-curl-tural Hair, page However, the following general advice applies to all curls and waves no matter how big, small, tightly wound, or loose. When I mention cleanser I always mean a sulfate-free cleanser, by conditioner I mean a botanical conditioner, and by gel I mean one thats free of harsh ingredients such as alcohol and silicone.

I sometimes talk about cleanser and conditioner interchangeably because for some curly girls, using a conditioner is just as good as using a cleanser for cleaning. See chapter 8, page 79, for pointers on how to read a hair-care ingredient label and how to determine which products are good or bad for your curls. Whatever your type of curls, follow the general directions for cleansing, conditioning, scrunching, and styling your hair on the following spread.

Also toss out your hairbrushes and combs, even those that claim to be made for curls. The act of brushing or combing the hair actually interferes with your curls formation and causes breakage and dispersed curls otherwise known as frizz!

Instead, use your fingers to comb through the hair only when its wet and drenched with conditioner in the shower. There are two parts to the cleansing routine for all curls: How often you cleanse and condition depends on your hair and where you are in the process. If youre weaning yourself off shampoo, you may want to stay on your usual cleansing schedule, just replacing your regular shampoo with a sulfate-free product or a botanical conditioner.

You might not like a bubble-free diet, but your hair will love it. Once your hair becomes more hydrated and healthy, you will probably cleanse less often and just wet your hair and go right to the conditioning step for your curl type. Its also important to allow the hair to rest at times and not get locked into a scheduled routine of overcleansing.

I know wavy types who only wash their hair every three to four days. If you are new to this curly girl approach to hair care, the amounts of product you use will change as your hair becomes healthier. For example, early on you may need to use lots of conditioner because your hair is dry and thirsty, then, as your hair gets hydrated, youll use less. Because your curls moods are so affected by weather and climate, you may have to adjust the amount of product you use when you travel or as the seasons change.

Generally, the tighter or drier the curl, the more botanical conditioner you need. Hair thats been damaged by blow-frying, coloring, or chemical straightening absorbs conditioner quickly and needs more. Experiment with different amounts to figure out whats best for your hair, but err on the side of more conditioner rather than less. For most curl types, I suggest leaving some or all of your conditioner in your hair.

I know this sounds unorthodox, especially since were so conditionedahem! But curly hair needs that extra moisture to stay hydrated and frizz-free, and the word greasy is almost never relevant to a curly girl. Others worry that leaving conditioner in will make your hair crunchy or sticky, but that wont happen with the right product see chapter 8, page 79, for choosing a conditioner.

In fact, a favorite trick of girls with a high frizz factor and dense, thick curls is to not rinse out any conditioner at all. Because when you squeeze out excess water with a paper towel or microfiber towel see photo, right , its like rinsingthe hair naturally absorbs the conditioner it needs to stay hydrated and releases what it doesnt.

In the conditioning sections for each type of curl, I suggest gliding conditioner downward through your hair with your fingers. If you have longer hair, follow this step by scrunching the same section of hair upward toward the scalp. This opposite motion will encourage and reintroduce your intrinsic curl pattern to your hair. I often use the words squeeze-quench to describe the process of squeezing hair with conditioner in an upward motion toward the scalp.

It usually releases a milky residue of excess water and conditioner. A squishy sound and hair that feels as viscous as wet seaweed means that hydration penetration has been accomplished. Never dry curls with a conventional towel, because it will absorb too much moisture and its harsh fabric will ruffle the sensitive hair cuticle, causing frizz. Instead, I suggest using a paper towel, an old cotton T-shirt, or a microfiber towel.

Though I mention these three options throughout the book, you can use anything smooth and absorbent, like a pillowcase or babys burp cloth. Gently rotate the fabric as you blot the hair.

Just like blotting a sweater in a towel after washing, precious hair fibers need the same gentle care. Scrunch-squeeze is how I describe the upward scrunching motion toward the scalp that you make with a microfiber towel to absorb extra moisture.

Use a paper towel, an old cotton T-shirt, or a microfiber towel to absorb moisture from curly locks. Gel is an important part of every curly girls routine because it gives definitive hold but is light to the touch.

As your hair begins to dry and the gel hardens, dont be alarmed by the crystallized curl cast, or gel cast. This helps hold the natural curl formation until the hair dries, protecting it from outside elements like wind and humidity. Once hair is completely dry, you can dissolve and release the gel cast by tilting your head forward and gently scrunching hair upward toward the scalp.

The result will be soft, defined, touchable curls. Its important to use a gel thats alcohol-and silicone-free, as it lives in your hair for 2 to 3 days. For each type of curl in the book, I give an approximate time for how long it will take to cleanse and style.

This period will get shorter as hair gets healthier and more hydrated. Simply being curly is not enough. Beautiful, healthy hair is the result of first accepting your curls for their natural tendencies, then working with them, and being really consistent in your daily care routine. Remember, you are the custodian of that little garden atop your head! It will reflect the care that you give it. Resist the impulse to start scrubbing your head and disturbing your hairs basic shape.

If the water pressure is strong, cup your hair in your hands. Wet hair thoroughly. Evenly distribute to the fingertips of the other hand and then apply directly to the scalp; be careful not to disturb your curls. Finally, move down the back of your head, finishing up at the nape. Now let the water spray through your hair, rinsing out whatever your fingers have loosened. When you rinse the top of your hair, the ends of the hair will get clean as the cleanser or conditioner moves downward.

This method will create fewer tangles and will prevent overwashing the typically drier, more mature ends of your hair. In the past, you probably shampooed the top of your hair first. It is usually the first place to get rinsed, too, so conditioner was washed out before it did its job.

No wonder we curly girls have been f. We need to reverse this sequence: Have the top of your head be the last place you apply cleanser and the last place you rinse out conditioner. And say good-bye to your frizz halo forever. If needed, apply more conditioner through the hair at each side of your head, using your fingers as a comb. The point is to distribute the conditioner evenly through your hairs landscape so no curl is left behind.

Now your hair should feel smooth and silkylike wet seaweed. The hair there breaks easily, so be patient and gentle when trying to release any tangles or knots with your fingers. Ripping equals frays and frays equal more knots. Then, using your fingers, comb through your hair from underneath, removing any loose hairs. Remember, its normal to lose about a hundred strands a day! Cup your hands under the water and splash water over your hair a couple of times.

I call this a trickle or baptism rinse; it ensures that the canopy of the hair, which is constantly exposed to the environment and thus very dry, can have the right amount of conditioner to stop it from frizzing. Over time, youll know instinctively whether to rinse out any more conditioner at this point. If you do rinse, just let the shower spray fall over your head for a few seconds to evenly distribute the conditioner without removing it.

Loosely cupping a microfiber towel, paper towel, or an old cotton T-shirt, gently squeeze upward toward the scalp to remove excess water and encourage curl formation see page It should sound very squishy.

Repeat this motion all around your head. If you like your curls to be fuller, do this until the hair no longer drips; if you want more gravity to your curls, leave in more water. Place a palmful of gel in one hand and evenly distribute it to the other hand. Apply the gel evenly throughout the landscape of the hair, making sure you cover all your curls. Starting at the ends, scrunch sections of hair up toward the scalp visualize that youre pushing a spring together with both hands, and then releasing it.

This method will cultivate or enhance the curl formation. If its a humid day or you have a high halo frizz factor, take an additional quarter-sized amount of gel and rub it in both hands. Then very gently graze the gel over the top layer of hair so the cuticle will be smooth. The roots of curly hair can sometimes dry flat because of the weight of the wet hair pulling downward. This is especially the case with longer hair.

Clipping hair at the roots relieves the wet hair of its own weight as it dries, so you add lift and get a more even curl pattern from roots to ends. This also helps hair dry faster. Heres how to use clips:. If you place the clip farther down the hair, youll add more weight and make the roots flatter. Dont be afraid of doing it wrong; its really very simple if you dont overthink it. Using a clawlike motion, lift a small amount of hair from the top of your head.

The hair should be gently pulled perpendicular to the scalp, not forward or backward. Open the clip, slide it in at the base of the hair and leave it. Make sure the hair is as tight as when you pinched it and that the clip is close to the scalp.

You will need about six clips to lift the top of your hairin front, at the crown, and between those two points. Now leave your hair alone and let it dry.

As hair gets longer, this flat spot is more apparent, and if you color your hair, its where your roots show first. Use a side mirror to help you find your target for clipping. After some practice, youll be able to do this without looking. To take clips out, anchor the piece of hair gently with one hand, then with the other hand, open the clip and slide it out. If the clips are the same color as your hair, no one can see them hidden in your curls once your hair dries.

For a greater lift, add gel to the clips. Spot cleansing your hair can be done as often as you like. Just spray lavender mist see chapter 8, page 83, for the spray recipe on a soft but durable damp paper towel and wind it around your fingertip. Place your paper towel-clad finger on the scalp. With firm, circular motions, rub out all dirt particles as you would a stain on a shirt.

For wigs, extensions, and weaves you can use the same paper towel-covered finger technique, by gliding over the surface and moving downward while lightly pressing. This cleaning method is also great to use when you are traveling or camping. This method releases the top layer of hair from its own weight, allowing it to dry faster and in an even curl pattern from roots to ends.

For the clipping technique, see page Dont interrupt the curls while theyre drying or theyll frizz up. This creates the same kind of drying microclimate that youd get from a hooded dryer. Lean over, place your hands on your scalp, and with the tips of your fingers, very lightly shake your hair at the roots to open up the curls. Stand upright, and very gently lift your fingers off the scalp, not raking them through your hair which can cause frizz.

Skip this step if you like a more contained curl. When I was seven, I was obsessed with Dorothy Hamills haircutthat shiny bowl cut with bangs that she sported when she skated her way to an Olympic Gold Medal. I begged my mom to let me get a similar cut, and though she gently tried to discourage me because she knew it wouldnt work with my very curly hair , I persisted.

Finally, she gave in and took me to the salon. I showed the hairstylist the Dorothy Hamill photos that Id cut out of magazines. The stylist and my mother exchanged glances, as if they were agreeing to let me get this haircut just to show me it wouldnt work. And they were right. To replicate that famous bowl cut, I had to blow-dry my hair each morning. Yes, a seven year old blow-drying her hair each morning before school!

It would look good initially, but after twenty minutes, it was all downhill. Id return home from school with a short, frizzy mess. I was so mad at my hair, wondering why it wouldnt do what I wanted after so much hard work.

Curly girl : the handbook

In fifth grade, my family moved from the city to a suburb. As if switching schools midyear wasnt traumatic enough, I was devastated to find that all the girls wore their hair in long, straight ponytailssomething I coveted to no end.

Then I met Kim, a classmate, who, along with her sister, had the best hair. Every day at 6: Still, there was always something gnawing at methis anxious feeling that my hair could change with the weather or, worst of all, at swim class! I actually love swimming, but the thought of how my hair would look after class made it a horrible experience. In junior high, a friend who had hair I thought was like mine, got an adorable short, wavy- curly haircut.

I decided to give up my long, straight ponytail and do the same. My friends haircut was cute; mine was horrible. It looked like a giant Brillo pad sitting on my head. Finally, during a hippie phase in college, I let my hair go natural and loved it. Now I regret all the time and agony I wasted wrestling with my curls. But I also learned a bigger lesson: Dont try to make yourself fit an image that doesnt make sense for you. This is who I am, curly hair and all! Cup one hand and apply a mounded tablespoon of sulfate-free cleanser or botanical conditioner along the pads of your fingers, and evenly distribute the cleanser to the fingertips of the other hand.

Starting at the temples, use firm circular massaging motions down the sides of your head, then move to the top of the head going gently toward the crown. Exfoliating will slough off any dead skin cells and product buildup, making your scalp healthier and relieving any itchiness. See chapter 8, page 84, for exfoliating scrub recipe and directions. Apply it to the entire canopy of the hair making sure no curl is left behind. Even though Cherub curls are a very delicate hair type, they require lots of hydration to stay flexible and prevent breakage.

Then gently comb your fingers through your curls from underneath, removing any loose hairs. Dont be concerned when you come away with strands in your hand; its normal to lose many hairs a day! This trickle rinse method ensures that you dont remove too much conditioner from the canopy of the hair, which needs extra hydration because of its constant exposure to the elements. If youre looking for more volume to your hair, rinse conditioner out of the hair more thoroughly by standing under the water stream while cupping your hair in your hands.

In this case, put in extra gel to secure and hold the curl formation during the drying process. If your cherub curls are well-hydrated, you may not need to condition them after cleansing.

With a paper towel, microfiber towel, or an old cotton T-shirt, scrunch- squeeze sections of hair upward, tilting your head from side to side. Shake your hair back and forth to help your curls settle into place. Take a shallow palmful of gel, evenly distribute it in both hands, and very lightly graze down the canopy to ensure that every curl is covered. Take a generous palmful of gel, evenly distribute it to both hands, and squeeze it into the hair from the bottom of the curl toward the scalp in an upward motion, making sure every curl is covered.

Bring head upright, and shake it gently back and forth to help your curls settle into place. If your hair has a high frizz factor, take a tiny bit more gel and graze it gently down the canopy of the hair.

Using a clawlike motion, lift a small amount of hair along the part hair should be pulled perpendicular to the scalp, not forward or backward. Place a clip at the roots where you pinched the hair and at a right angle to the scalp. Any higher along the hair and the clips will weigh it down, making the roots look even flatter. Youll need about four to six clips. When your curls are drying, they can be dispersed or frizzed by ruffling winds, fingers, combs and brushes, as well as by putting on and taking off clothes.

So after styling your hair, keep your hands away from your curls as you let them dry. Also, if youre new to being a curly girl, dont run your fingers through your hair when its dry and dont let others do it either. If you want to give curls a lift during the day, aerate them rather than raking your fingers through your curls.

Heres how: With your head tilted forward, lightly place your hands on your scalp and gently shuffle your fingers at the roots. Keeping your hands in your scalp, slowly stand upright and shuffle your fingers a little more. Then very, very gently lift your fingers off the scalp without raking them through the hair.

This last step is very important or else youll disrupt your curls. Tiny hairs may wrap around the clips during the drying process, and gentle handling prevents them from ripping or snapping. If you dont feel like going through your usual hair care routine in the morning, a lavender spray see page 83 for a homemade recipe can refresh your curls quickly and reactivate the gel in the hair from the previous day. Tilt your head to one side, spray hair with the lavender spray, and scrunch hair gently upward toward the scalp.

Tilt your head to the other side and repeat. Do so in the back as well. If you have any curls that have become dispersed overnight, spritz them with the lavender spray, twist them around your finger, slide the hair off your finger, and then clip the curl horizontally at the root. Let hair dry for 5 to 20 minutes, then carefully remove any clips. Shake your head, gently loosen hair at scalp with your fingers, and go.

I had gotten used to my curls, imposed a self-taught regimen to keep the frizz at bay, and was finally beginning to feel comfortable in my skinI mean hairwhen I moved to New York City to launch my acting career. The first photographer I found to take my head shots panicked when I showed up at his studio. No one will ever hire you with that hair, he said. Name one famous actress with curly hair that wild. This was , when Hollywoods women seemed to be competing for the straightest locks in the land; when the Friends girls appeared to be sleeping with their hot irons more than their boyfriends, and the new Japanese hair-straightening system was all the rage at my hair salon.

I was determined to be a success and wasnt going to let my hair get in the way of my career. But I cried when I got the photos back. They looked like someone else; someone boring, passive, and vulnerable. In one, he even had me in a wig. But I had them printed and sent off to every agency in the book.

Apparently I was not the only one who didnt like my photos. No one called. Two years later, I learned about the Curly Girl Method.

I stopped shampooing and discovered clips. I had new headshot photos taken, this time with my hair natural. I sent them out, and I began getting work immediately.

I was in many dressing rooms with other girls who would be fighting the humidity with brushes and serums and thousands of watts of electricity, but not once did anyone pull out a staightening iron or ask me to hide my curls. We would always end up talking about curls. Out of my element, but at home in my curls, I was on the way to finding myself.

Head shot with natural curls. Much better! Girls with wavy and swavy hair are often the most misunderstood and underrecognized types because their hair can easily be confused for straight. Wavy hair lies flat against the scalp, and every curl is in the shape of an S. Some are very loose, floppy Ss while others are more defined.

Some wavy hair may have a spring factor of 5 inches, while other waves fall in extremely lazy Ss below the shoulders and barely spring at all. Very often, the hair has to grow past the shoulders before S shapes can appear and then begin to twist and turn. Wavy girls who think they are straight may be on too strict a diet of frequent haircuts, downward brushing, and blow-drying, so that the waves are attacked before they have a chance to reveal themselves.

If hair is short, the wave or curl may not even be discernible. Where theres a wave, theres a curl! Though wavy hair isnt usually as dry as really curly locks can be, you should still toss every bottle of shampoo in your bathroom and cleanse with a sulfate-free cleanser or botanical conditioner. You should also stop using a blow-dryer or flat iron and never use a brush. When it comes to how often you should wash your hair, youll need a little trial and error to figure it out.

Often by the second or third day without cleansing, this sensitive hair type has more movement and body. Many of my wavy and swavy girls lightly cleanse only every three to four days and, between cleansings, they revive their hair with a spritz of lavender. I urge you not to have so many self-imposed rules. If your hair still looks great after a few days without cleansing, leave it alone! Give it another day or two before washing and you might be surprised at the beautiful contours you see!

A lot of caring for wavy and swavy hair is about what youre not going to do, rather than what you do. Treat your hair gently and properly by following the cleansing and styling directions here and encourage your natural wave.

After three weeks, you may be surprised to discover your full wavy potential with loose, glamorous curls that shine with good health. If the water pressure is very high, try to lower it on the shower nozzle.

If you have baby-fine waves, put on a hairnet available at Sally Beauty Supply before you go under the water. The net allows water to flow through and lets you cleanse hair with your fingers while helping to contain your hairs wave structure. Evenly distribute the cleanser to the fingertips of the other hand. Starting at the temples, use firm, circular motions of your fingertips to rub your scalp gently down the sides.

Then move to the top of your head, massaging toward the crown. To make waves and swaves look thicker, see page Cup your hair in your hands as you rinse and squeeze upward at the same time so you hear a squishy sound. Applying it to the roots can make hair too limp.

The only exception is if you tend to have a halo of flyaways at the roots. In that case, put a small amount of conditioner on your fingertips and graze it lightly over the canopy of the hair. Low frizz-factor wavy hair or baby-fine shorter hair may not always need conditioning after cleansing. It may make your hair too soft and reduce its body.

Experiment with both methods. And if your hair feels well hydrated after cleansing, skip the conditioner and go to the styling section. Then take those same sections and scrunch upward. This opposite motion after combing will nurture and encourage your hairs wave pattern. Though other curl types leave some or all of their conditioner in the hair, wavy types should rinse it out completely so the weight of the conditioner doesnt leave wavy strands flat.

Cup your hair loosely with a microfiber towel, paper towel, or an old cotton T-shirt and scrunch-squeeze as much water out of your hair as possible. For clip tips, see chapter 4, page Clipping at the roots relieves the wet hair of its own weight as it dries. Add a little gel to the clip and leave it in until hair is completely dry.

You may want to experiment to see which gives you the waves you crave, or use them at different times to achieve a variety of looks.

Bring your head upright and gently shake waves into their natural position and let them air dry. This is best for more defined waves rather than loose ones.

Keep your head tilted over and use a blow-dryer with a diffuser on a low to medium setting, or sit under a hooded dryer. Both are good techniques for wavy and swavy girls because it dries the hair faster and locks in the gel, helping the waves form with definition and hold. It also prevents the water and gel from weighing down the waves. Place a yoga mat on the floor, and put a towel over it. Then lie down on the mat and spread your wet, gelled locks open on the floor around your head like a veil.

Dry your hair with a diffuser set on low. Because the hair is resting on the floor, not being pulled down by gravity, its weightlessness guarantees body without frizz. A friend does this and her hair always looks full and amazingly defined. For wavy and swavy curls, try drying your hair with a diffuser set on low to medium.

Starting at the crown, wrap a section of hair around your finger, slide your finger out, hold the coil with your other hand, and insert a clip at a right angle. The pin curls should stand out from your head, not lie flat. Put all of your hair in giant pin curls. After the hair is dry, gently remove the clips by holding the hair with one hand and opening the clip with the other. Loosen your curls with your fingers. Spritz hair with a spray gel for extra hold, if desired.

Its the end of a busy day and youre heading for a night out. But youre leaving in less than ten minutes and have no products or clips with you. Dont disp-hair!

Wet your hands in the sink, tilt your head forward, and scrunch upward, which should reactivate the gel thats already in your hair. If youre looking for more volume, shuffle your curls at the scalp see chapter 4, page If you have any dispersed curls, wet a finger, wind the curl around it, and hold it for a minute.

Repeat this on any curls, as needed. You will be amazed at how quickly your hair can revive! If youre a wavy or swavy girl, youve probably noticed that the amount of wave or curl you have changes with the seasons and climate. In humid areas and in summer, your waves and swaves are probably well defined, whereas in arid locales, such as desert areas, or in winter, wavy and swavy hair can appear almost straight if you do nothing to it.

A few things can help in caring for your curls in wintertime or when you are in dry climates:. In arid areas like the desert, a water filter attached to your showerhead is a must. To add extra body to hair, mix gel with your sulfate-free cleanser. Cleanse as directed on page 52 and rinse well. Scrunch and squeeze with a microfiber towel. Then apply gel again for styling This really works! Also, using a hairnet in the shower can keep your wave formation intact.

Add extra gel while styling to provide more hold throughout the day. Gel evaporates more quickly in the winter. For a sure hold, allow the product cast to stay firm and let it dissolve and open naturally during the day. Using a blow-dryer with a diffuser or hooded dryer on a medium heat setting can help hair dry more quickly and lock in the curl formation.

In this case, use extra gel because the heat will evaporate it. You might want to use a spray gel after drying your hair. Get a top-grade humidifier for your home. This will encourage your curls, and also keep skin from drying out. Spritz hair with lavender spray mixed with gel see page 80 for spray-gel recipe to uplift waves on mornings when you dont cleanse your hair or to revive waves during the day.

If you dont plan to cleanse your hair the next morning, preserve the formation of your waves by spritzing lightly with spray gel and balling your hair into a bun on the top of your head for the night. Unfurl the next morning. When your styling gel dries, it crystallizes to set the curl formationthis is why I keep reminding you not to touch your hair while it is drying. In the photograph below, the hair on the left still has a gel cast; the looser, fuller hair on the right has been scrunched to release the cast.

The best way to open or loosen the gel cast is to tilt your head to the side or forward and gently scrunch the hair toward the scalp. Do this all around the head. If you have a big event planned for the evening, you might want to leave in the gel cast all day at work to maintain the set, then release it right before the special occasion. Leaving in the gel cast also helps preserve the hair if its raining. My first hair trauma happened when I was eight.

My new stepmother thought my curly hair looked messy and was too hard to comb, so she took me to get my hair cut. I wanted to keep it long, but she wanted to have it all cut off, so we compromised: It would be short in front and long in the back.

Little did I know I was asking for the infamous haircut known as a mullet! I burst into tears, and wore a scarf on my head until it grew out. I was convinced that I was going to get a fabulous haircutthat was until I sat down in the hairstylists chair and she said, dismayed, I dont know how to cut your hair.

They only taught us how to cut straight hair. Then she had a brainstorm: Ill blow-dry your hair, and then cut it! Even straight, the haircut wasnt great; as soon as I washed it, it was a disaster. My own attempts to blow-dry my hair were a joke.

The best I could come up with was to put my wet hair in a ponytail, so that the top would dry straight and the bottom would dry curly. This made me look a bit as though Id stuck my finger into an electrical socket, but it was better than nothing. Then a friend told me about a curly hair salon. The very idea was strange to me, as if it wasnt a salon if everyone didnt come out looking like a Pantene commercial. But I loved my friends hair, so I thought I would give it a shot. When I first walked in, I was taken aback: It was like visiting a homeland for curly hair!

As a result, my relationship with my hair is now as easy as it should be. Theres lots of real, unavoidable suffering in the world, and none of it should be about the texture of your hair! The idea hit him when his daughter was raving about her friends hair one day and when she came home crying because she didnt have good hair another day.

When I saw the movie, I didnt know if I should laugh or cry when several women described their addiction to chemical relaxers as being on the creamy crack.

These relaxers are made of lye, a corrosive alkaline substance either sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide. Eventually I knew what hair wanted; it wanted to be itself. But African American women are not alone in their struggles with their hair. We are a multicultural world. Its not a one-size-fits-all globe anymore, especially regarding hair.

We have many multi-curl-tural clients at Devachan Salon, so I decided to hand over this chapter to a convert and expert on the subject, Vida Vladirm, of Devachan. Though there are exceptions, many ethnic groups have very curly hair. Then there are those of us of mixed nationalities who have multitextured hair. But no matter what ethnicity you are, you dont have to live with dull, dry, brittle locks.

What you have can be changed, perhaps not overnight but through persistence. If you want to be free of what I call modern-day slavery to your hair, a lot of patience and large amounts of moisturizing conditioners are key.

Traditionally, we multicultural women have used products that contain petroleum, silicone, waxes, and dry oils, believing that they will control, protect, and hydrate their hair.

No wonder our hair looks dull and lifeless! When its time for our weekly washing, the first rinse of water that goes down the drain is mucky and brown. It sounds gross, but thats the dirt thats been sitting in the hair for a week finally getting flushed out. Typically we cleanse again and apply conditioner, which isnt on the hair long enough to offer much benefit, especially when the hair has been trapped under heavy petroleum and waxes for a week.

Then we reapply those same moisture-robbing products, so the hair never gets the hydration it really needs and deserves. And therein lies or should I say lyes the problem. All curls need moisture, but multicultural curls are desperately begging for hydration, especially those curls that are smaller and tighter.

And though multicultural hair can appear thick, each strand is actually very fine and weak, so all this gunk we put on our hair and stuff we do to straighten it takes a toll on our hair, not to mention our wallet. I know this all too well because its exactly what I didfor decades. When I was growing up, my hair was braided into two little ponytails or put in Shirley Temple sausage curls at the salon.

Other times, both as a little girl and an adult, I had my hair straightened with a hot comb or flat iron, which more than once was too hot and singed my hair off and caused burns on my scalp, forehead, ears, and neck. I also used to abuse my curls when sleeping by putting in nearly fifty plastic perming rods, with the hope that they would tame and smooth my hair.

They were uncomfortable, but my hair was more important than sleeping well. Then one day I realized that it was crazyas well as hypocriticalfor me to tell my clients at the salon to love their curly hair while I relaxed and disguised mine. Yes, I decided it was time to let my hair be.

I didnt make any big commitments and I always kept a bottle of relaxer in my fridge at home, just in case. I went cold turkey. Now, some people prefer to go curly more gradually by softening their hair first with what they believe are gentle relaxers. But remember that by doing so, your curls wont emerge as quickly, if at all, or will be lethargic. That said, I know you need to find your own comfort level. At first, Id braid my hair or do a two-strand twist, let it dry, and then unravel it.

But my hair didnt grow very much and I didnt see many curls. Finally, I had to admit that I really needed to leave my hair alone once and for all. So I started following the routine for multi-curl-tural hair described in detail, pages I gave up shampoo and slathered my dry hair with a botanical conditioner, starting at the ends and working it throughout my whole head of hair.

Often, Id keep the conditioner in my hair for an entire weekend. Vida in transition. My hair began to grow faster than I imagined it could. The first section of curls cropped up in the back of my head; the last in the front and on top, which makes sense since those are the areas most exposed to environmental damage.

Soon my hair was below my bra strap. Years ago, if youd told me that Id have the curls I do today, I would have said you were crazy, thinking other peoples hair may grow like that, but my hair doesnt. But it did. And so can yours. For more tips on going natural, see chapter 7, Curlies Coming Out of the Closet. So if youre ready to put down the chemicals, relaxers, and hot combs and go natural, understand that your curls are not going to happen overnight, but they will come.

However, theyre not going to reach their full potential until the products full of petroleum, waxes, and silicones are no longer clinging to your strands.

Keeping hair in optimum condition during the growing-out phase is paramount, because you want the new growth to be healthy. Coconut oils, shea butter, jojoba oil, and TLCurl are all key moisturizers to use during this phase and in the future to keep your hair hydrated. Your hair will start to lie a little softer once its no longer being abused.

Begin by following the cleansing and styling routines for fractal and zigzag curls, on the next page. At first you will need to use a sulfate-free cleanser or botanical conditioner several times a week to really release all the waxy product from your hair. I also recommend that you condition your hair nightly as I did.

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Also, leaving some, maybe all, of the conditioner in your hair when you shower can be a good styling foundation. If you have flyaways, put some gel in your hands and glide it over your wet hair. The next day, your hair will probably still look great and the bathroom steam will reactivate your curl product from the day before.

Starting around the age of nine, my sister would straighten my tight, kinky hair with a hot comb heated on the stove using either lard or very thick hair pomade. The whole house would smell like something was burning. Then I went natural, but couldnt stand it, so I tried getting my hair hot-combed at a salon. The tips of my ears got burnt and smoke filled up the place with such heat that I could hardly stand itall just to get my hair straight!

I tried to sleep with rollers in my hair but it was torture. The final straw happened when a beautician put a softener in my hair that left my hair smelling like rotten fish for a month despite many, many washings.

The Curly Girl Method: A How-To Guide

Finally, I was tired and frustrated by my quest to find the perfect solution. My hair wanted to be curly. I had to stop fighting it, and I cut my hair really short. I wondered if my hair made me look unattractive to men. I know it shouldnt have mattered, but it did. So it meant a lot to me when my oldest brother, whose opinion I highly value, told me how great it looked. Many of my friends say they wish they could just let their hair go, but they think their husbands wont like it.

My advice? Give it a try! It is so liberating not to have to spend the time and money in salons and on products trying to figure out how to tame my hair. It took a while, but I finally learned that what my hair really wanted was for me to let it be its kinky, curly self. Growing out hair treated by relaxers can be a pain, but relax pun intended. Be Zen and adventurous with it. Some creative ideas to help you through this awkward phase include:.

Go for a Billie Holiday jazz singer look that is sleek, slicked back, and anchored with clips, a flower, or brooch at the side. The Afraux-hawk is so popular in an updo shape and can be very flattering with all hair types and face shapes. Simply slick or braid back the sides and allow the top center to be freestanding and natural. The twist and out is a great day-to-evening look. Then at night, unleash them by gently opening them apart and shaking out your curls so theyre voluminous and sexy.

This time will decrease when hydration has become your hairs way of life. Fractal and zigzag curls are the tiniest, driest, and densest of any hair type. Because of their nonporous nature, a lot of products dont penetrate the hair shaft, which is why you may have tried unsuccessfully to hydrate your hair in the past.

You know by now that sulfate-filled products are bad for curls, and for fractals and zigzags theyre a disaster. Just one dose of shampoo takes gallons of water to rinse and it never comes out completely. For these curl types to absorb maximum moisture, they need to be hydrated before you get in the shower. A precleanse acts as a wetting agent for these hard-to-saturate fractals and zigzags, making the conditioning process more effective.

This method is also great for cleansing dreadlocks, weaves, or extensions. Though you can color your curly hair I use a lightener on mine , you have to be careful.

Hair color chemicals can dehydrate your already parched curls. Just make sure you are conditioning and deep conditioning on a regular basis, in order to put back the moisture thats depleted when hair coloring products are used.

And remember: No shampoo! If youre not sure whether to use cleanser or conditioner, go with the latter because it is more hydrating. Smooth the cleanser or conditioner over the entire surface of the hairs canopy, using a downward motion. This precleanse acts as a wetting agent to make the cleansing and conditioning process more effective. It saves water, too.

Starting at the temples, place your fingertips on your scalp and use a firm, circular massaging motion to rub gently down the sides of your head. Move to the top of your head, massaging gently toward the crown; then move to the back of the head, ending at the nape of the neck. Again, err on the side of more rather than less for this hair type. Your hair should have as much viscosity as a jellyfish in water. Cleanse or shave another body part while you let the conditioner soak into your curls.

Dont worry if hairs come out; its normal to lose about a hundred hairs a day. Continue to comb conditioner through the hairs terrain. Turn off the water, but stay in the shower. Tilt your head to one side and use your hands to squeeze-quench your hair up toward the scalp so a milky residue seeps through your fingers. Because of the density and dryness of this curl type, the hair may not drip at all.

Unfortunately, once the hair recedes it doesnt grow back. Im also not big on hair extensions. Ive seen women who have had them in for years and years, and underneath the artificial strands, their own hair has receded so much that the extension is hanging barely by a thread of real hair. Instead, look up to the ceiling and sway your hair back and forth to allow it to fall into its natural place. Take a generous palmful of gel and rub it onto both hands.

Tilt your head to the right, and evenly distribute gel into the hair as you scrunch-squeeze hair gently up toward the scalp. Tilt head to the left and do the same scrunch-squeeze motion. Fractal and zigzag curls can soak in all the moisturizing product you give them. Then scrunch gel throughout the canopy of the hair. With your hands still on your scalp, stand upright and lift your hands off your head without raking your fingers through your hair.

If you want more lift, place clips at the roots see page But if you dont have time, dry it with a diffuser see page 55 , hooded dryer theyre surprisingly inexpensive and portable , or if youre on the go, put your heater on in the car.

Though I had whats considered good hair in African American culture, it was still hard to manage as a child. All my girlfriends had cute little bobs, but if my hair was down it just looked wild. To tame it, my mom would brush it every morning the pain from that was excruciating and braid it.

A few times I had my hair chemically straightened, and other times I used rollers and sat under a dryer to smooth it.You may never get thesheen that your naturally straight sisters can achieve, but after a few weeks of TLC and conditioner,conditioner, and more conditioner, shinier curls will emerge.

Now your hair should feel smooth and silkylike wet seaweed. If static and flyaways are still aproblem, take a wet paper towel with gel in it, and graze gently in a downward motion over the toplayer of your hair.

Then I ran into two friends who had let their hair go curly and they looked gorgeous, so I decided to do the same. You typically need to be ontop; you are determined to overcome all obstacles, and your locks may be one of them. My firstand worsthair trauma occurred when I was nine. I dry my curls by turning on the heat in my car, which creates a little microclimate thatallows the moisture from the products to lock into the hair faster, keeps the hair cuticle closed, andevaporates the water.

To replicate that famous bowl cut, I had to blow-dry my hair each morning.

HERMA from Brighton
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